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Turkish ensemble...

I finally got some photos of the various layers of my Turkish ensemble.


If you want more detail you can click on the photos to go to my flickr and look at the larger size image.

This one shows my pants. They are cut from a medium stiff smooth silk sari that has metal threads in a white gold colour woven in. They are fairly light pants though insulative enough for both cool and hot weather. I used the pattern on Mistress Laurellin's website. I don't think I needed to make the crotch gore that large though so the next pair will be better and more authentically patterned for proper Turkish. They do have pockets though :)

DSCF0049

I feel so naked in my underwears...
This is the gomlek. It is made of a looseweave linen so it is fairly light and drapey. Like a thick cheesecloth. It is cut with the square underarm gussets with the side gussets gathered in like extant
Persian one on Uratim's site but with flared sleeves rather than tapered ones.

DSCF0053

Next is my chirka. This is the supportive layer. It is lined in a fairly heavy linen and the outer fabric is fairly stiff. This is not an outer layer for public wandering, at least one entari must go over it. There is nothing in the way of exant bits for this. I had to work it out on my own and a few images from the time.

DSCF0054

Next comes an entari. This is worn over all that comes before. It is black linen lined in a nice silk. Fits very tight under the bust. Based on a couple of period examples and images. It is very rectangular and triangular. Not much in the way of curves in the cutting. I will be doing a pattern layout for this soon. This one also has a pair of button in sleeves that work really well and are painfully easy to make. I need to get a photo of that still.

DSCF0056

And the final layer. Cotton lined in much thinner cotton. I need to redo the braid loops down the front. Using soutache doesn't work, it is starting to fall apart. I wish I could get better detailed images of the extant ones...
This coat can do up all the way to the neck over the bosom, but why wear it that way ;)

DSCF0061


Top it all off with a small velvet hat that has a strip of silk tied around it, some little leather slippers, and a bunch of different sash belts and I am set to go!

X-Posted to my crafty journal 13costumes

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Comments

( 37 comments — Leave a comment )
(Deleted comment)
vanagnessayem
Jun. 20th, 2008 01:45 pm (UTC)
Yeah, one day if I ever get a program to do the html for me I will build a page with proper pattern layouts and period images to go with.
There are not that many good sites for Turkish...
:)
rogue_priestess
Jun. 18th, 2008 06:42 pm (UTC)
thank you so much for posting this! I've been trying to wrap my brain around some of the period sources I've seen that just don't seem to add up some days.

and its amazing that the more layers you put on, the thinner you look!
spiceandsugar
Jun. 18th, 2008 07:44 pm (UTC)
the layers add to the hip curve, the hips look wider and that makes the waist look narrower
vanagnessayem
Jun. 20th, 2008 01:45 pm (UTC)
I think I look thinner in my black than in the teal...
spiceandsugar
Jun. 20th, 2008 01:54 pm (UTC)
The teal has the loop detail, which draws the eye outward, the black, by it's color draws the eye inward
aliskye
Jun. 18th, 2008 07:11 pm (UTC)
Woo! Applause! Beautiful!!!
vanagnessayem
Jun. 20th, 2008 01:45 pm (UTC)
thank you :)
aliskye
Jun. 21st, 2008 05:40 pm (UTC)
btw: I hope you don't mind that I friended you. I looked at your personal page and I was totally inspired (even as this post was utterly inspiring. :)

Oh....and Sasha Khan pointed out your post :)
vanagnessayem
Jun. 21st, 2008 05:43 pm (UTC)
I don't mind at all!
:)
yes Sasha is my evil turk friend from afar, we did meet once, under an Estrella sky...
baronalejandro
Jun. 18th, 2008 07:39 pm (UTC)
Sasha Khan pointed me here.
Item the first - you are a total babe.

Item the second - nice clothing! Very nice! I like it a lot!

Sincerely,

A Janissary
vanagnessayem
Jun. 20th, 2008 01:47 pm (UTC)
Re: Sasha Khan pointed me here.
thank you :)
that photo of you looks very like a painting, it brings to mind so many images I have seen. Very nice!
jillaw
Jun. 18th, 2008 09:18 pm (UTC)
Oh. My. Goodness.

I am in love.
vanagnessayem
Jun. 20th, 2008 01:47 pm (UTC)
thank you :)
takadai_no_tora
Jun. 18th, 2008 09:32 pm (UTC)
Is your soutache braid purely decorative or does it work into buttonloops, etc? If it's rayon, which MUCH soutache is, it will fall apart and shred itself at a harsh look, unfortunately.

Luighseach
BTW, Hi! I'm a friend of shsha_khan
vanagnessayem
Jun. 20th, 2008 01:49 pm (UTC)
the soutache is worked into buttonloops and holds the buttons on the other side. I knew it wasn't going to work for long when I put it on but it was what I had at the time and that coat wasn't really meant to be very serious. I am sure that I will be weaving some proper ones eventually if I can find a close image of the extant ones some day...

spinnerlady
Jun. 21st, 2008 04:04 pm (UTC)
Beautiful garb....and those pesky soutache braids
Hello from sunny and hot Caid! Sasha sent me in your direction....lovely, and inspiring garb! My hubby and I figured out the braid bits when the Palace of Gold and Light exhibit was in San Diego a few years ago. Basically he tablet wove button strips of about 8" in length and loop strips of about 7" in length and then left a couple or three inches unwoven between each strip.

When you've woven enough, take the piece off the loom and cut up the bits. Cut the strips about 1/4" inch away from the weaving. This leaves you a nice long unwoven bit to play with. The unwoven parts will help you in making the loops. They were formed out of each half of warp forming an arch and then bound with matching thread. The button ends were created by using a bit of wood dowel that was then bound in the end of the longer strip.

I hope this makes sense....it wasn't a difficult project but yielded a fantastic and durable end product.

Cheers,
Thea
vanagnessayem
Jun. 21st, 2008 04:31 pm (UTC)
Re: Beautiful garb....and those pesky soutache braids
thank you :)
I was figuring they were either cardwoven or rather complicatedly braided.
I will probably play with that concept a bit, it did make sense...
samiz
Jun. 19th, 2008 02:42 am (UTC)
That's beautiful.
I was actually admiring the outfit at SeaLion. (Hi, I'm Lady Aline Blakwode of Seagirt - but I kept to myself a lot so I don't think we actually met).
vanagnessayem
Jun. 20th, 2008 01:51 pm (UTC)
:) thank you.
I am kind of shy, though I hide it pretty well, so I don't really meet that many people at events.
If you like come over and say hi next time...
bronx_baroness
Jun. 19th, 2008 07:50 pm (UTC)
Gurdymonkey sent me to see you!
I just finished my first light layer persian. Although after seeing yours I want to go burn mine LOL. Oh well- it's a beginning, it's totally different from my usual Mongol and now I know where I have to go from the one I'm cooking in at my event on Saturday. I worship in your general direction! And thanks for the beautiful inspiration!

BTW- I used tubular bias for me closures. It's cheating, I know, but it works.
vanagnessayem
Jun. 20th, 2008 01:55 pm (UTC)
Re: Gurdymonkey sent me to see you!
Persian is so different from turkish, I am sure it looks fabulous! I usually do 14th c english so this is VERY different for me. Thank you for your kind words, they do swell my head, I shall have to make a larger hat...
Tubular bias eh... now that is an idea :)
rengal
Jun. 20th, 2008 09:51 am (UTC)
I like how your posture changes with the more layers you get on. ;)
vanagnessayem
Jun. 20th, 2008 01:57 pm (UTC)
Seriously the compression under my bust helps keep me upright. No really though I have no idea why my posture changes so dramatically during these photos. I hunched a bit in my chemise I know because the linen is pretty sheer and I was showing quite enough through it as it was. :)
greeklady
Jun. 22nd, 2008 03:22 am (UTC)
I am in love. Honestly. My god.
vanagnessayem
Jul. 18th, 2008 10:44 pm (UTC)
Yeay!
;)
turdoken
Jul. 18th, 2008 02:40 pm (UTC)
That is outstanding! My Lady and her daughter have been wanting to do this but they are under the mistaken impression that "well, Russian is eastern like Turkish...." and since I've done wardrobes in the one...yeah, so thank you for the really masterly costuming and photos!
vanagnessayem
Jul. 18th, 2008 10:44 pm (UTC)
my pleasure :) and thank you for the compliments!
the_ri
Jul. 18th, 2008 04:58 pm (UTC)
fabulous
saw your response to a recent SCA Silkroad lj thread.

absolutely impressed/in awe of your work. I do Tang Dynasty (618-907a.d.) chinese in the SCA, and I just adore seeing people with beautiful eastern creations.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3276/2325026470_f864c9ff48.jpg
domarisdione
Jul. 18th, 2008 06:02 pm (UTC)
Your stuff is gorgeous - so much better than mine - I'm also 16c. Ottoman, and my stuff fits no where near as well as yours.

Wonderful.
spunkybluegrl
Jul. 29th, 2008 08:41 pm (UTC)
Just found this through the SCA Silkroad thread. HOMG! You look so awesome! Excellent work, especially on the final layer. Have you created the last patterns for the entaris? I'd love to see what you did in order to make them. So cool! :o)
@~>~~
sapphyrah
Sep. 21st, 2008 04:18 am (UTC)
Hey, Your Chirka, is it self supporting?
vanagnessayem
Sep. 21st, 2008 09:03 pm (UTC)
yep it is :)

sapphyrah
Sep. 22nd, 2008 01:53 am (UTC)
Awesome!

I'm inspired :) Thank you.
vanagnessayem
Sep. 22nd, 2008 05:09 pm (UTC)
more than happy to help :)
sidelong
Jan. 14th, 2009 05:34 pm (UTC)
Ooh, pretty...
Okay, I've never actually wanted to make any Persian/Turkish/Ottoman stuff before until I saw your pictures.

Now I'm wondering how many yards you'd need for that lovely entari.

*Cries*

~Enid
Welsh girl. Really.
silentmist
Oct. 14th, 2010 11:03 pm (UTC)
I was hoping I could make this ensemble for gulf wars, but I was wondering what you did for socks and shoes.

Your work is amazing!! :)
( 37 comments — Leave a comment )

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